One More From California

Greetings, faithful friends. (If you are still reading these posts that is what you are.) After approximately 40 hours of continuous driving we arrived safely back in Atlanta on Sunday evening, just in time for Thomas to report for duty at school approximately 12 hours later. We certainly could have squeezed in a few more pitches if he hadn't so unreasonably requested that we get back the night before. Slacker.

We spent the last part of our trip in the Sierra and tackled two of the objectives that we had both been most attached to doing. The first of these was Matthes Crest.

This is a ridge climb in the Sierra and is purportedly over a mile long. You only have to climb a short way up to gain the ridge, and then, after that, you basically get to spend all day on the summit.

The ridge is not all fifth class climbing and involves a good bit of easier terrain. Sometimes we walked, sometimes we climbed, sometimes I scooted. (I never saw Thomas employing this particular technique. For those not familiar with it, it involves making forward progress while sitting. Yes, that is possible.)

The climb involves tremendous exposure, with sheer walls dropping off on either side. I had some concerns before the climb about how I would deal with this. Thomas on the other hand absolutely revels in it. He took the lead for most of the climb and as I followed, any time I heard him exclaim "Wahoo!" I knew it meant I was going to be scared when I arrived at that point. (Hence, the scooting.)

Overall, this was one of the best and most fun days of climbing I have ever had. Long days in the mountains are truly what it is all about. If you ever have the opportunity to do this climb, definitely go for it.

Our next big objective was the Incredible Hulk. This is a peak we had both been wanting to visit for quite some time, and it just so happened to have good climbs for both of us to lead. The Incredible Hulk is not particularly high--topping out at just over 11,000 feet--but according to folks in the know who climb in the Sierra a lot (and write guidebooks) it is supposed to have some of the best rock in the range.

We hiked in with stuff to spend a few days at the peak. On our first climbing day, we did Red Dihedral (10b) which goes up the right side of the face. The plan was for me to lead as much of the climb as I wanted and I could turn it over to Thomas at any point if I was tired or we were moving too slowly. He would allegedly do the same the next day. (Right--as if he was going to turn to me and say "We need to speed up. Take the lead!") I was hoping to just get through the two 5.10 pitches but, with a little encouragement I ended up leading the whole route cleanly.

The Red Dihedral (crux) pitch

Thomas following the fun splitter hand crack

It took longer than it should have and I did not always climb with the confidence I would have liked, but overall I was pleased with the effort. This was the climb that had motivated me the most in training for this trip and is the hardest and most sustained climb that I have led.

After a rest day, it was Thomas' turn on Positive Vibrations (11a). This route was simply amazing and Thomas, of course, did the whole route in good style. Each pitch literally seems to get better and better--provided you enjoy crack climbing.

Some fun stemming low on the route

Perfect splitters up high

And, a great ending


For both routes, getting to the summit requires tunneling through a chimney on the last pitch.

The Incredible Hulk was definitely a fitting end to the trip, giving us an opportunity to test ourselves after spending a good bit of time climbing long routes on granite.

Now we're back and, sadly, we've left that cool mountain air behind. Won't be needing that jacket anytime soon.

For anyone who's interested (but mostly for my own amusement), a few stats from our trip:

Miles driven: 5,300

Miles walked: 101

Pitches climbed: 123

Total feet climbed: 18,500

Energy bars: 93

Jars of peanut butter and nutella: 6.5

Bear sightings: 0

Zippers opened by bears: 3 (Yes, it's true. The bears in Yosemite have learned to open zippers on packs to look for goodies.)

Bakery visits: 4

Times we talked about bakery visits: Innumerable

Falls while lead climbing: 3 (all me)

Falls while walking: 3 (again, all me)

All in all, the trip was a great success! I have returned with a renewed enthusiasm for trad climbing and training and a greater appreciation of what is possible if I keep pushing myself.